My Third Ride "Honda Civic EK3 Ferio"

This was my third ride, a 1996/1999 JDM Honda Civic EK3 Ferio. She had a 1500cc engine + CVT Multimatic gearbox. Previously my Mum was using it and since she retired from her job, I took ownership of it.

This Honda Civic entered it's 6th generation, the "EK-generation" from late 1995 till late 2000. Replaced by the current ES-generation from late-2000, nevertheless many fans still feels the EK-Civic to represent a peak in Honda's acheivement amongst all generations of Civics thus far. In the EK-Civic, the various variants were truly refined to the highest of standards. The SiR was given the code EK4 and carries the 3rd (and as it turned out to be also the last) incarnation of the legendary B16A. This generation also saw the introduction of a true Type-R Civic, the EK9. Best of all, for the person with family requirements, the so-called "executive" D15B engined version was one of the best overall Civic yet designed by Honda.

It has always felt the EK3 Civic to be one of Honda's best overall Civic models. For its market segment and design objectives, it easily ranks alongside the excellence level of the EK4 Si/SiRs and even the EK9 Type-R.


For the EK-generation Civics, Honda used the model code EK3 to denote the 'executive' Civic versions. This versions are effectively '2nd from the top' Civics, in this case, just below the top B16A and B16B engined variants. Executive Civics are powered by engines with a balance of fuel economy and power and designed for practicality and comfort unlike the B16A & B16B engined Civics which focuses purely on performance to the extent of compromising rather large degrees of comfort and even practicality.


"2nd from the top" Civics relies on the D15B engine in various configurations. The D15B displaces 1493c.c. and is always SOHC in design. In the EK3 series of variants, Honda equipped it with either just plain PGM-Fi which produces 105ps or the now famous 3-stage VTEC mechanism in which case it produces 130ps but with fuel consumption that can reach up to ~28km/l ! With the EK-generation, Honda also continued with the segregation of using the Civic name for the 3-door hatchbacks and Civic Ferio for the 4-door sedans. However, in addition to this Honda also used different type nomenclatures for the hatch and sedans.

 

  

  

 

She was fitted with a 17" Lenso Concept 5 wheels + Yokohama A539 tyres. Future plans were to do a engine transplant and a full convert to the '99 ViRS specs. However, as I was staring to mod her, my brother was keen to take over and let go of his EG6. I finally decided to part with her after 10 months. My brother's EG6 was given to a friend to continue payment. Plans to mod was not successful. My next target was a 1992 Ford Tx3 1.8i DOHC. Some pics below, after my brother's ownership:

After about 2 years of his ownership, she was sold off to a second-hand dealer as my brother got his Ford Focus Elite MK-II. There she goes from my family. I wish I still had her. A superb base for a Type-R transplant and very robust applications. Hope she's in good hands. Miss her too.

3 Old Skool Rockford Fosgate Amplifiers

1) Rockford Fosgate 250.2 - 2Channel Amplifier.RM1200

2) Rockford Fosgate 40.2 - 2Channel Amplifier.SOLD

3) Rockford Fosgate 2.9x - 2Channel Amplifier.SOLD

Package includes:LSB

Price:Negotiable for group buy

Warranty:NIL

Dealing method:COD

Location of seller:Cheras, KL, Malaysia

Contact method/details:Comment/ Call +6016 260 6600

Item(s) conditions:Used(Fair-Excellent)

Mazda Furai ! Zoom Zoom...

The Mazda Furai is a concept car revealed on 27 December, 2007 and manufactured by Mazda.

The Furai, meaning Sound of the wind, is the fifth and last of the Mazda Nagare line of concept cars that have been made by Mazda since 2006. The chassis is based on the Courage Compétition C65 Le Mans Prototype that Mazda last used to compete in the American Le Mans Series, two seasons previously and is designed to use E100 ethanol fuel, it is powered by a new generation 3-rotor wankel engine that puts out 450 brake horsepower (340 kW). The engine is developed and built by renowned rotary tuner, Racing Beat, who also built the car's rotary-shaped muffler canister. Sounds like the perfect engine for an RX-7, doesn't it?

But Furai, which will be joined on the stand by the revised 2009 Mazda RX-8, is much more than just a design exercise. It is also an emphatic statement by Mazda that its relentless "zoom-zoom" (sorry, we tried not to use it) message really means something. According to the automaker, on a given weekend in the U.S., more Mazda-powered vehicles are ripping around tracks than any other brand. That's a lot of sports cars with soul.

From the teaser shot of the car, you can definitely make out the Nagare-style gills on top of the front wheel housing and an exaggerated cutline along the bodyside. It definitely has the look of an LMP-type ALMS car with a closed cockpit design. What seems to be a cooling vent setup along the top of the car indicates a mid-engine layout.

It has run at Laguna Seca and Buttonwillow. Head designer, Laurens van den Acker, has stated in an interview with Top Gear magazine that there are possibilities of the Furai being used for racing in Le Mans, and he also has strong hopes that the car could be brought to the market

 

 

Courtesy of: Wikipedia, Autoblog, Motortrend

Getting to know your Car better !

 

Today's vehicles are much more complex and complicated than the cars of the 1960s, '70s, '80s, incorporating more computer electronics, silicon chips, and sophisticated engines. However, the same basic car care still applies to all kinds of vehicles, and can extend the life and durability of your car or truck.

The best part is, basic car care does not require any sophisticated understanding of vehicles or their systems. A few simple steps, some regular checks, and addressing issues promptly can greatly extend the life of your vehicle, making it safer and more dependable for you and your family.

Regular checks:

It may seem intimidating, but basic care car is often simply a matter of popping open the hood and taking a look at the engine of your vehicle.

Some basic car care starts with examining the exterior. Check your tires at least every other week to make sure they are inflated properly. This should be an actual check with a tire pressure gauge, but you may also advantage from a visual check to make sure the tires appear equally and properly inflated.

Other visual checks that require almost no vehicle mechanics knowledge include the following:

- body and bumper damage, which should be monitored for insurance purposes
- leaking fluids underneath the vehicle, including oil, power and brake fluid, transmission or other fluid (air-conditioning may cause water to drip under a vehicle)
- smoke in vehicle exhaust, aside from normal diesel emissions or startup fumes
- engine or fluid warning lights, which should be promptly addressed before any further driving

Under the Hood:

Of course, much of the day-to-day driving maintenance for your vehicle must occur with the hood opened and up, but that doesn't mean you have to be a mechanic. The most important things to monitor and check regularly include the following:

- engine oil level and cleanliness
- antifreeze/coolant level (never attempt to remove radiator cap while engine is hot or warm)
- brake and power steering fluid levels
- transmission fluid
- belts

When checking fluid levels, the engine usually has containers and canisters with fill-level lines. Make sure the fluids are above the minimum line, and below the maximum line. You should also keep an eye out for any leaks or worn radiator and other tubes, which should be replaced before pushed to the point of bursting.

Other things to be watchful for in and around the engine include loose electrical or tube connections, worn or exposed wires, and loose or warped belts, which should be promptly replaced. Belt replacement is somewhat difficult for some motorists, but is a relatively simple and inexpensive fix at a service station, so it may be worth the trip to your mechanic to get the right belt installed correctly.

You should also keep an eye on your vehicle's battery, and be aware of its age. Batteries should be replaced every five years or so, and if your battery is not getting the proper charge to easily start your car, you should have it checked. You can usually have your battery's charge and water level checked for free at a battery replacement station. Most vehicle batteries come with comprehensive warranties, as well.

Changing the Oil:

One of the most important things you can do to maintain your vehicle is to change the oil and oil filter regularly. Some mechanics recommend changing the oil every 2,000-3,000 miles, but you can safely drive further. However, you should be sure to change the oil of your vehicle, or have it changed, at least every 5,000, including a new filter.

Your oil should be relatively clean, but still have a dark color to it once it runs through your engine. You should regularly check your oil level, and maintain it between the minimum and maximum fill lines. This is why it is a good idea to have some motor oil with the vehicle so you will be able to add some if needed.

There are a variety of types of motor oil to choose from. Lighter weight oil, such as 5W-40, is typically better for warm to hot weather, while heavier oil, such as 10W-40, is more suited to colder temperatures and climates. If your vehicle smokes or uses a lot of oil, a heavier weight and synthetic blend motor oil is probably best.

Other Replacements and Maintenance:

Other important components and parts of your vehicle and engine that need regular maintenance and infrequent replacement include the following:

- air filter
- headlight, turn signals, and brake lamps
- spark plugs and cables
- engine timing belt
- windshield wipers
- Most engine tuneups are either actual motor work, or electrical tuneups consisting of spark plug, cable, and distributor cap replacement.

The biggest thing to remember with ongoing vehicle maintenance is to address issues promptly, including engine knocking or other noises, and do your best to try to understand what may be going on before you visit the mechanic.

Below are some illustration of the car body and major parts that might be useful for your better understanding

 

Braking

Cooling

Engine

Engine Electrical

Exhaust

Fuel

Steering

Suspension

Transaxle-Drivetrain 1

Transaxle-Drivetrain 2

Transmission_Clutch

Transmission_Gearbox

My Second Ride "Proton Waja"

 

This was my second ride which I inherited from my Dad as I started working and paid for it officially. Basically this was the most boring ride I ever had. Sorry to all Waja owners, no heart feelings. She was a 2002 model Proton Waja, 1600cc manual transmission. I did not feel to modify this ride as I just could not blend with her.

I have read many reviews concerning the Waja which of course, mostly negative and I am not gonna pin point which area did Waja fail cause it's gonna be a long list that I try to avoid. Besides, enough negative feedback given! However just to name few, she has serious parts quality issue and assembly problem. Throttle body had issues since day one and she will just choke and stall at low idling. This issue was address several times but THEY fail to fix it. Although many claims the handling is of superior standards, I personally think she has some serious body-roll issues. Not many knew but if you look closely, the chassis width is very much smaller compared to it's external shell. This can be noticed at the dashboard area where the line from wide, curves in dramatically into the firewall section. Engine block cyclinders were pretty much narrowed which was very vulnarable to cracks. 

After mere 9 months, I decided to part with her to trade-in for a C200 W202 for my Dad where I took owneship of a 1996/1999 Honda Civic EK3 Ferio. There goes my liking for this national brand. Hopefully we'll see improvement as the legendry Saga, Wira, Satria and Putra.

My First Ride "Proton Saga Megavalve"

It was 2002, I was 21 when I got my first ride. Thanks to my Mom who invested MYR24K on a 1992 Proton Saga Megavalve. She had a 1500cc in-line 4-cylinder 12 valve engine with 5 speed manual transmission. Not to forget she was running on a carburetor.

Did some simple modification such as; front-Gabriel absorbers, rear-Tokico absorbers, hot-bits coil springs, 15" Enkei sports wheels + 205/50/15 soft compound tyres, Bendix brake pads, K&N filters, 1.8 Mitsubishi Tredia clutch set + lighten flywheel, Accel power coil, Accel plug wires, Beru 3-head plugs, 4-2-1 exhaust maifold, REMUS centre bullet, Sebring muffler, AE111 semi-bucket seats, Mitsubishi Fiore dashboard + digital speedo, Vacuum meter, Pioneer 12 disc changer, Caliber pre-amp, 3 Rockford Fosgate amplifiers, Punch components, Lanzar tweeters, 2 12" Rockford Fosgate sub-woofers, etc....

I am wondering why this car is so tough. It never caused me problems. I never encountered transmission problems or electrical problems since the day I acquired it. I took care of her and at the same time trash the hell out of her and yet she was like a dream girl every teenager would want to have as their first love.

Rough driving, long distance drives, but never failed to reach the destination. I was wondering why the cassette player(changed to a CD changer later) never broke down compared to these days CD players. This is the best car produced by PROTON, despite hearing so many problems encountered by Proton owners. I was so damn stupid to let go of her. It was my biggest mistake by giving her away due to finacial constraints. Enjoyed driving her since my Mom gave it to me for 5 years until I managed to buy my own car. Really miss you ACD 5995.